A place for the drinking fountain needs to be chosen. From the building code, it “shall not be installed in toilet rooms.”

Bill of Materials

• (19) 3/4" x 4' x 8' plywood
• (24) 2" x 4" x 8'
• (1) 1/2" XPS or EPS foam board insulation
• (1) 25# bucket of 3" ceramic coated deck screws
• (3) 5' x 16' galvanized horse fencing (moisture tolerant re-mesh)
• 265 ft² (floor & walls of shower) of paint-on waterproofing membrane (2 coats of RedGard (10 gallons) or equiv)
• (4) Oatey Designline 6" square stainless steel floor shower drain ($60/ea)
• ABS plumbing parts
  • 4" Ø DWV
    • (3) 10' Pipe
    • (5) Long-Turn Tee Wye $26
    • (5) Hub Closet $21
    • (1) Cleanout
    • (1) All Hub Wye 4"x4"x2" $17
  • 2" Ø DWV
    • (7) P-trap $10
    • (4) ABS Cell Core Pipe x 10' $21
    • (3) Long Sweep $5
    • (1) Double Fixture Fitting $18
    • (2) All Hub Long-Turn Tee Why
    • (1) Cleanout

Steps

• lay 3/4" plywood subfloor
• lay 2nd layer of 3/4" subfloor, seams offset, fastened through to joists with moisture tolerant screws
• install waterproofing membrane in showers, reinforcement
• install 1/2" foam insulation around wall edges, at top of concrete height (used as floats)
• install reinforcing mesh
• install stand pipes for toilets and drains
• pour concrete floor (Oct 12)
• wait for floor to cure
• sand / grind / polish the floor

From: Derek Lester
Sent: Monday, October 3, 2022 9:43 PM
Subject: Stevens Lodge Support Bean Repair

Gentlemen,
In cleaning out the basement, we removed all dirt and debris from around all the wood support beams. During this, we found:
1 beam completely rotted and holding no weight
1 is 2/3 rotted through
1 is wet all the way through
1 was placed on a brick that is 2/3 cracked.
I still must check a half dozen additional support beams.
Most of the main support beams are rough cut logs, not dimensional lumber

Near Term
I recommend we add additional support around rotted and suspected beams at one of our work parties this month (either this Saturday > or Saturday the 22).

Longer Term (Spring/early summer)
Call in a structural engineer to assess and recommend how to support the lodge’s foundation for the next 75 years.

I just wanted to get this on everyone’s radar. Adding supports this fall should be straightforward. It’s the long-term shoring up that we will need to talk about more.

What do you all think?

From: Tom Hansen
Sent: Tuesday, October 4, 2022 6:41 AM

Jeff et al-
I agree with your temp fix approach in general. If you send me pictures, we can discuss by phone if desired. Due to some things happening at home, I will not have time to come up and look myself right now, but I will be happy to do so at a later time. No need to hire a structural engineer as I am comfortable using my skill set to make at least an initial assessment. This is not the first time that this type of situation has come up.

From: Matt Simerson
Sent: Friday, October 7, 2022

Derek, great job on the housekeeping under the lodge, and noticing the issue. Clue 1 that we should have been looking further into foundation decay / erosion / settling was the floors in the bathroom being so far out of plumb.

I just wanted to describe what a permanent fix looks like in everyone's minds. Stevens has a continuous perimeter foundation with a supporting pier and beam running down the center. The beam is supported by posts on piers and the posts have eroded away. The builders probably didn't put an isolation membrane between the soil and post. (Better built buildings of Steven's vintage have a cut piece of shingle material between the post and the ground/soil/concrete footing.

Step 1: determine the extent of the settling. You all might have noticed that the stairs aren't level. The bathroom floor is over an inch out. Some of the top plates are canted inwards. There's abundant evidence of settling. We should get a laser level set up under the lodge, project a line all the way around the perimeter foundation and measure how close to true it is. The bad news: this might create a whole new project.

1.1: While projecting that level line, poke a screwdriver or ice pick at the sill plate and rim joists all the way around, testing how solid the wood is. There's a very good chance that sections of those plates need replacement.

1.2: Check the straightness of the top of the beam. There's a good chance that lacking sufficient support, that beam is now sagging. Check the integrity of the beam itself for any signs of rot and decay, and judge whether it can be sistered or must be replaced.

Step 2: drive a vertical stake near (~14" away from) each of the existing piers and mark it at the same reference height as the perimeter foundation. When doing shoring work next year, the stakes will prove useful.

Step 3: Run a load calculation on the building (using 284 psf as the Ground Snow Load). From there, calculate the beam size required down the center of the lodge, as well as the spacing and minimum pad size for the piers.

Step 4: I'm with Tom here, we don't need a structural engineer for this. Skip step 3 and overbuild it. Pour a series of 2' square pads with embedded 6" post bases. Do that between each of the existing posts. This year, put posts in for temporary supports. Next year, plan to sister the main beam, using the new pads as jack points with a few 20-ton jacks. Slowly raise that center beam to match the perimeter reference lines we set in step 1.

4.1: Each 24" post base starts with a 27" square patch of undisturbed (or compacted) native soil. Atop the soil is a 2x8" wooden box with a 24" inside measurement. Cut a piece of 6-mil plastic and line the inside of the box with it. Center a 6" post anchor in the box with the flat interface raised 1" higher than the top of the wooden box. Fill the box with concrete, smoothly sloping the top of the concrete down from the post anchor to the outside edges.

4.2: Bolt 6x6 posts in the post anchors and positively attach them to the beam with structural post caps.

4.BS: The Building Science: the 6-mil plastic prevents soil moisture from constantly wetting the concrete pier. Moisture won't hurt the concrete but it travel through the concrete (capillary action) and would cause the post anchor to rust. Rusting metal in concrete expands, breaking the concrete. The post anchors (weren't required when the lodge was built) keeps the support posts atop the pier blocks during seismic events. The 2' square piers each have 4 times the load bearing capacity of a standard 1' pier block. The sloped top of the pier blocks sheds any bulk water instead of letting it pool and wet the bottom of the posts. Post caps keeps the posts under the support beam during seismic events.

Step 5: With the building raised and supported on the new piers and posts, jack the building up another 1/8", remove the existing posts, and repeat step 4 for each of the original posts. When finished, lower the building, removing the jacks and dunnage and our center beam has roughly an order of magnitude more support. Keep a roof over the building and that support beam will last 500 years.

Step 6: If the sill plates or rim joists need replacement, jack up the perimeter of the building with temporary posts and beams and replace decayed wood as necessary. Add additional corner framing required to meet hurricane and seismic code standards and bring the knee walls and sills up to (or better than) current building code. Sill plates need 5/8" bolts added (or equivalent retrofits like the Simpson URFP). Every corner must have hold downs added (giant steel straps) with a 3/4" galvanized bolt epoxied into the concrete foundation walls. Then interior plywood (with vent holes drilled in) is added to the interior of the knee walls with a seismic nailing pattern. (These are rather "modern" additions to the building code, added after the Loma Proprieta and Nisqually quakes).

Design References

• Code:
  • IBC Chapter 3, Residential
  • IBC Chapter 11, Accessibliity
  • IBC Chapter 29 Plumbing Systems
  • Access-Board.gov, Guide to ADA Accessibility Standards, Accessible Toilet Rooms
  • UPC 2018 / Seattle Plumbing Code
  • WA Uniform Plumbing Code
    • 02.5 Setting. Fixtures shall be set level and in proper alignment with reference to adjacent walls. No water closet or bidet shall be set closer than fifteen (15) inches (381 mm) from its center to any side wall or obstruction nor closer than thirty (30) inches (762 mm) center to center to any similar fixture. The clear space in front of any water closet or bidet shall be not less than twenty-four (24) inches (610 mm). No urinal shall be set closer than twelve (12) inches (305 mm) from its center to any side wall or partition nor closer than twenty-four (24) inches (610 mm) center to center.
    • 418.3 Location of Floor Drains. Floor drains shall be installed in the following areas: 1. Toilet rooms containing two (2) or more water closets or a combination of one (1) water closet and one (1) urinal, except in a dwelling unit. The floor shall slope toward the floor drains. 2. Laundry rooms in commercial buildings and common laundry facilities in multifamily dwelling buildings.
• parcel #: 1426139001, R-2 Dormitory zoning
• The back corner stall will be ADA / family / assisted-use.
• Others stalls will be 30” wide

Layout D

• It fits everything from Layout C, just rearranged.
• the "wall of stalls" has very nice symmetry
• the stalls are 1" wider and 9" deeper (standard "minimum" depth)
  • room to walk in and close the door without straddling the toilet

Layout C

• unisex layout
• enclosed stalls for privacy
  • stalls have same depth (51") and are 3" wider than A & B
• two extra-wide dual-use shower stalls
  • urinal in dual-use stall increases space for sinks
• walk way between stalls is sufficient (36") to comfortably pass
  • doors can open into stalls or into passage. Pros and cons both ways.
• sinks along interior wall
  • warmer pipes
  • stud bays provide a chase to hide the plumbing
  • provides an obvious place for mirrors (vs island)
  • 5 sinks / lavatories required
• spacious loitering area
  • combined with adjacent passage, makes it feel even more spacious
  • could have an island seat with toiletry cubbies beneath
• large storage cabinet
  • upper shelves for "keep away from children" items
  • middle shelves for frequently accessed personal items / toiletry cubbies
  • lower for mop bucket, supplies, potential site of a mini washer

There are tradeoffs that can be twiddled:

• the stalls could be deeper, at the cost of a narrower passage
• the stalls can be wider, at the cost of sink and cabinet space
• cabinet can be deeper without cramping the space
• toilets can hug a stall wall, to increase walkable space (see Layout C, interior wall)

Layouts A & B

• better than existing
• passages remain very snug
• the stall doors are impracticably close to the toilets. There's barely room to maneuver.
• space which could make the stalls nicer is consumed by passages
• the third lady has the same lack-of-privacy as today
• a single shower stall is sufficient, most of the time.
• shower has no elbow room
• the least used thing (shower) is in the way
• the shower is cramping the adjacent hallway

Design

• water is very expensive
• plumb with the ability to integrate future gray water system
• PEX A, because they have in house experience
  • support every 32" (min)
• All hot and cold water pipes installed outside the conditioned space shall be insulated to a minimum R-3.
• IPC 407.2.1 The maximum flow rate for public lavatory faucets shall not exceed 0.5 gpm at 60 psi.
• IPC 407.3 Hot water delivered from public-use lavatories shall be limited to a maximum temperature of 120°F
• IPC 411.2 The effective flush volume of all water closets shall not exceed 1.28 gallons
• IPC 412.1.1 Where nonwater urinals are installed, not less than one water supplied fixture rated at not less than 1 water supply fixture unit (WSFU) shall be installed upstream on the same drain line to facilitate drain line flow and rinsing.
• IPC 419.5 Tempered water (85-110°) for public hand-washing facilities. Tempered water shall be delivered from lavatories and group wash fixtures located in public toilet facilities patrons and visitors. Tempered water shall be delivered through an approved water-temperature limiting device that conforms to ASSE 1070/ASME A112.1070/CSA B125.70 or CSA B125.3.
• Floor drains shall be installed in ... toilet rooms containing two (2) or more water closets... The floor shall slope toward the floor drains.

Permitting

• King County Public Health: permit: $389
• KCEH says, based on scope of work, plan review is not needed (yay, that takes 18-24 weeks)

Bill of Materials

is here.

Data

• Water Usage History
• envelope math: about ~400 gallons used / weekend
• guesstimate: toilets use about half that (50 people * 2 days * 3 flushes / day = ~300 flushes)
• 2100 gallon tank is ~$2,000

The Idea

Because water at Steven's is so expensive, installing a greywater system could pay for itself very quickly. Implementation would look like:

• Dig a big hole
• Bury a large cistern, so the top is below frost line
• Plumb the sink and shower drains so they can be diverted to the greywater tank
• use water from the grey water tank to flush the toilets

How it Works

• Walls
  • finish material (must be smooth, hard, and unaffected by moisture)
  • Dumawall - $4,000 (Rich)
    • Wintry-Mix tiles, (18', 18', 12', 5', 5', 4', 4') * 8 = 530 * 10% scrap = 583 sq/ft = 291 panels = 37 boxes
    • inside corner trim (19708), 60' = 9 pcs.
    • L-trim (19908), 40', = 6 pcs.
    • J-trim (19808), 16' = 2 pcs.
    • (60) tubes of LocTite Power Grab Ultimate adhesive
    • (16) tubes of DAP Kwik Seal Ultra (Clear) sealant
  • custom built partition walls (Rich)
  • ceiling above showers (Rich)
• Sinks / Lavs
  • countertop & general use sink: 7' 8' wide trough with 4 faucets, ~$4,000
  • accessible sink: wall mounted, open base
  • (5) faucets: pushbutton metered faucets (~$150 ea): $750
• Toilets / Urinals
  • existing waterless urinal
  • (4) existing low-flow toilets
  • (1) accessible toilet
  • (5) wax gaskets
  • (4) 32" grab bars
  • (1) 54" grab bar
  • (2) 32" grab bar
• Shower
  • (2) shower mixer valves
  • (2) low flow shower heads
  • (2) 36" grab bars
  • (2) 42" grab bars
• Floor Drains
  • (2) shower
  • (2) middle of room
• Hand drying
  • paper towel dispenser
  • Dyson Airblade $1,250
• Utility
  • spigot under trough sink, for bucket filling

Cast of Characters

• Stevens Lodge
  • Derek Lester - Chair
  • Jessica Smith - Chair
  • Jason Naranjo - Facilities Co-Chair
  • Jeff Bowman - Facilities Co-Chair
• Mountaineers
  • Matt Simerson - VP of Outdoor Centers
  • Rich Johnson - Board Member & Building Contractor
    • Nick - builder

Plan & Timeline

April

• #2
• #3

May

• Nick comes up on a weekend to estimate his labor portion (T&M)
• #4
• #5

June

• Bath: order / procure building materials (Rich)
• Bath: demolish existing bathrooms (Jason)
  • walls and fixtures removed, floor remains (Work Party, June 25-26)
• Bath: get final measurements of the space and update plans (Matt)

July

• remove the subfloor (Work Party, July 16, 17)
• bath: buy plumbing materials (Matt, Jason, Rich)
• bath: install plumbing (Matt, Jason)
• #8

August

• finish in-wall items
  • bath: buy electrical materials (Jason / contractor)
  • bath: install electrical (Jason)
  • bath: rough-in plumbing inspection (Matt)
  • bath: spray foam insulate bathroom walls (Matt)
• fabricate bathroom stall walls & doors (Rich, Nick)
• install bathrooms, June 24 to Sep 1 and Oct 1-Nov 20 (Nick)
  • cover walls with 1/2" plywood (framing is 24" OC)
  • paint the plywood with RedGard or equivalent sealing membrane
  • install Dumawall tiles over plywood
  • install bathroom fixtures & stalls
• bath: spray foam insulate under the floor (Matt)

Considerations

• the current Stevens bathrooms are not nice
• we would like the new bathrooms to be nice.
• do not be constrained by current "overly cozy" layout
  • unisex layout
  • trough sink
• water is very expensive
  • plumb with the ability to integrate future gray water system
• heated cement floor would be nice
• partition walls for bath/stalls.

Jason's Presentation to Board

• The bathrooms were brought inside Stevens Lodge in 1977. Minor cosmetic and mechanical have been updates since that time. We have plumbing that is failing and flooring and structural members that are rotting and need replacing. Ventilation and heating the space safely is also an issue that will be addressed by this project.
• Bids: We are in the process of receiving bids. We expect the project to have a total cost of $70-100K. We will be reusing/up cycling our low-flow toilets and urinal. Our goal is to come in at or under $70K. We have one bid for $72K and one bid for only demolition and rough-in (framing, structural, and flooring) for $9.5K.
• Funding request: We are requesting a 60/40 spilt, with the organization carrying 60% of the total cost and Stevens Lodge self supporting and or fundraising 40%.
• Timeline: We want funding approval by April 1st 2022 so that we can complete fundraising and schedule contractor(s). The project is expected to begin in late June or early July and be done no later than August 1st. This will allow us to open for PCT season.

Plan

In addition to planned electrical work, drop a sub-panel over by the bathroom. Land all the circuits listed below in that kitchen/bath sub-panel.

Circuits

• 20A GFCI near sink
• 15A lighting
• 15A bath fans
• 20A radiant heating
• 20A hand dryer (supports two)
• 20A interior wall (future washing machine)
• kitchen (immediately above bathrooms)
  • 30A oven
  • 30A oven
  • 30A griddle
  • 50A cooktop / range
  • 20A microwave
  • 20A dishwasher
  • 20A garbage disposal
  • 15 or 20A fridge (always on)
  • 20A small appliance
  • 20A small appliance
  • vent hood

Design & Layout

• bath fans on occupancy sensors and timers
• sealed lights above shower stalls to prevent moisture ingress
• night lighting, motion activated with timer, enough to see during a midnight pee
• day lighting on human controlled switch
• in-floor heating ceiling mount radiant heaters controlled by thermostat?