Welcome to the comprehensive guide for the ITRL Manufacturing GitHub Repository. This platform serves as a vital source of information about our range of 3D printers - Ultimaker 2+, Ultimaker 3, and Voron Trident. Here, you'll have access to extensive printing profiles, specifications, and instructions to enhance your 3D printing experience.

• Nozzle Diameter: This parameter varies based on the material and printing requirements. Always confirm the correct diameter before initiating a print.
• Bed Leveling: Only attempt this if you're experienced. It's crucial after changing the nozzle or making similar hardware adjustments. Note that usually, bed leveling is not the root issue and incorrect adjustment can cause irreversible damage to the nozzle.

• Maximum Print Speed: 30 mm/s
• Supported Filaments: PLA

• Maximum Print Speed: 70 mm/s
• Supported Filaments: PLA

• Maximum Print Speed: 170 mm/s
• Tested Filaments: PLA

• Maximum Print Speed: Up to 200 mm/s
• Supported Filaments: TPU, ABS, ASA

0. Clean Clean Clean. Often non obvious bed failures are due to a greasy/dusty bed (grease from hands, feet, faces), usually from hands. That is why it is important to wipe the bed down with isopropyl alcohol once in a while.
1. Avoid applying glue to the bed unless it's accompanied by thorough cleaning before and after printing, (under no circumstance should glue be used on the Voron Trident).

1. Gradually increase the first layer flow rate, potentially up to 200%. Be mindful of any clicking sounds, indicating that the setting might be too high.
2. Consider raising the bed temperature and lowering the first layer's speed. For Ultimakers, remember to check and trim the filament for bite marks.
3. Ensure the bed is properly leveled. This is particularly critical for Ultimaker 2+. Incorrect leveling can result in nozzle damage. See this first layer calibration guide.

The recommended install method is using brew. To install brew type this into Terminal:

/bin/bash -c "$(curl -fsSL https://raw.githubusercontent.com/Homebrew/install/HEAD/install.sh)"

Then using brew install superslicer:

brew install --cask superslicer 

If this is your first time installing SuperSlicer, initial attempts to run the script Start_SuperSlicer_MACOS may result in a security-related error. To resolve this, ensure you open SuperSlicer by right-clicking and selecting 'Open' in the Applications folder (provided previous steps have been correctly completed).

After this, you can close SuperSlicer and run the Start_SuperSlicer_MACOS app as normal. If you're concerned about the script being a virus, rest assured that the source code for the script is available in the package content.

Assuming you have managed to open SuperSlicer using the app, continue on to Usage Instructions.

The recommended install method is choco. The Start_SuperSlicer_WINDOWS file will automatically check if superslicer is installed using choco, if not it will prompt the user asking if one would like to install (if this happens, close the script and reopen it as admin).

In case you do not have choco installed, run this command in powershell (admin)

Set-ExecutionPolicy Bypass -Scope Process -Force; [System.Net.ServicePointManager]::SecurityProtocol = [System.Net.ServicePointManager]::SecurityProtocol -bor 3072; iex ((New-Object System.Net.WebClient).DownloadString('https://community.chocolatey.org/install.ps1'))

To avoid admin request spam, it does not handle upgrading superslicer. To upgrade superslicer run in an admin powershell (or cmd) terminal:

choco upgrade superslicer -y

Assuming you have managed to open superslicer using the .bat file, continue on to Usage Instructions.

If you know Linux you probably don't need instructions on how to install superslicer, I have had the most luck with appimages.

For setting up SuperSlicer, transfer the relevant folders (filament, print, and printer settings) into the saved settings directory of your operating system. Ensure that you launch SuperSlicer at least once before performing this action.

• Windows: %appdata%/Roaming/superslicer
• Mac: /Users/[USER]/Library/Application Support/SuperSlicer
• Linux: ~/.config/SuperSlicer

When you open SuperSlicer for the first time, you are likely to encounter many introduction screens. These are irrelevant and can be closed. You should then see various profiles that I have created in the context menus on the right (refer to the image at the bottom of this page). If they are not present, there might be an issue with the script, or you may need to revisit the instructions to ensure they were followed accurately. If the profiles still don't appear, contact me by opening an issue here, or resort to using the manual method.

To access the trident head over to trident.sml.dedyn.io and use the regular login details. Then it is simply a matter of uploading the gcode.

Most if not all questions that may arise regarding the Prusa are answered in the official user guide next to the printer, here is the online version. Although not a requirement, if you are new to 3D printing I recommend reading the manual in full to get a pretty comprenhensive understanding of how the machine works and general tips and tricks. If in a rush, skip to page 41.

Download PrusaSlicer here or check quickinstall commands; and follow the wizard, adding the PrusaMK4 preset.

Windows:

choco install prusaslicer -y

Mac:

brew install --cask prusaslicer

Linux: You are on your own for now.

Then, instead of using the USB (in a pinch its ok but USBs have a tendency to dissapear in SML), print wirelessly directly from PrusaSlicer.

Make sure you are connected to the SML network and go here, or try here or perhaps try here. The login details are Maker and UFw8c3FFsrb8Lq3

Read more here, skip to step 3 in the guide.

The guide will need you to know the ip and APIKey: Make sure you are connected to the SML network, try ip PrusaMK4 or 10.0.2.207 and APIKey UFw8c3FFsrb8Lq3

• Build Volume: Be aware of your printer's dimensions to design parts that fit.
• Print Orientation: Decide this early to guide your design choices.
• Overhangs: Angles below 45 degrees often require support material.
• Bridging: Supports are not necessary for gaps up to around 10 mm.
• Nozzle Size: This is important for designing small features.
• Hole Diameters: Design holes smaller than needed and refine them post-printing for accuracy.
• Sharp Corners: Avoid these to minimize warping.
• Infill: Infill does not impact strength as much as perimeter count, I personally use 5% infill, only so internal overhangs are supported but not for strength. I highly recommend watching this video if strength is a concern: video link
• A Note on Supports: 9/10 of the instances supports are avoidable. Keep in mind the limitations of FDM printing when designing. For ex, if there is a sharp 90% angle, consider adding a champfer. I highly recommend watching this video:

Happy printing! 🎉