abersailbot / dewi-hardware Goto Github PK

Monitor battery voltage and currents on various devices.

Add a camera for collision avoidance events.

Reinforce boom to stop this and shorten kicking strap.

Reconnect 5V regulator/DC-DC converter. Make sure that GPS and compass have 3.3V power supplies, should be we use the Arduino 3.3V output to do this?

External antennas for Xbee, Wifi and RC. If on same frequency (e.g. 2.4 ghz) antennas should be at different heights to avoid interference.

Fix the stand so it survives the trip home from Finland.

The entire boat needs re-painting. Paint has started flaking off in places and is causing the wood to absorb some water. The bottom of the keel where a repair has been made should be re-painted sooner as it stands out.

12 bolts are required to attach 3 remaining castors to trolley base, located in the shed.

improve the water proofing on the internal boxes

Diodes on power input lines. Fuses between batteries and power winch/main system. Investigate poly fuses and other resettable solutions.

To plug into the Pi to debug failed boots.

Make sure every wire has a label on it!

Reprogramme the sail winch to shrink its maximum travel by a few cm

More epoxy to hold in existing lead and extra lead.

Specifying:
standard wiring colours for common buses,e.g. i2c or serial
maximum wire lengths
wire thicknesses
shielding

A remotely activateable audible warning system to tell other boats to get out the way. Would be nice if it can also play rule Britannia when we reach a waypoint or cross the finish line.

Either reconnect the Xbee or replace with another radio system e.g. NRF240L01 or Moteino.

This should probably be inside the hatch but on top of the box or outside the box.

Use shielded cables whereever possible on signal lines. Twist power and ground cables together.

So that all 4 batteries can be charged simultaneously.

A la kitty's setup.

Fix the Pi/Arduino mounting inside main electronics/'Computers' box. At the moment it's built of an old drinks bottle i think, which is causing the pi to get rather hot

Reduce clock speed to reduce power consumption.

White at front, green starboard, red port LEDS. These should be self powered to avoid additional cables through the deck.

With one that is a single piece and won't detach. Ideally metal.

Put the AtMega and power distribution, possibly regulator on PCB that fits ontop of Pi.

Affix wires external to electronics boxes to the hull. Leave enough slack to remove boxes from hull.

Build a new wind sensor and wind sensor mast to replace the previous lost/broken one. Possibly integrate Halie's luffing sensors.

Put a new pin in the mast to keep it straighter.

Try to improve handles so they are more comfortable and larger. Front handle is structural for the jib to deck connection.

Make a new stand that is:

1. collapsable
2. lightweight
3. has two wheels

Reconnect the GPS USB to serial converter and power supply.

Find a better fitting rudder pin to significantly reduce the wobble in the rudder assembly

Insert a metal rod into keel to reinforce it.

The front handle of Dewi needs fixing so that the jib can be attached. Will need Epoxy and Fibreglass we have to find somewhere.

Do not close this ticket until the sails have been attached and tensioned. Re-open if the handle breaks again

Epoxy and fibreglass the bottom of the keel back onto Dewi's hull. The broken part of the keel can be found in a clear clipped plastic box.

Do not close this ticket until the epoxy has set and has had some gentle strength testing. Re-open this ticket if the it breaks again

The bottom of the box could do with 2 more struts to reinforce it a little more, we only have 1 which fits at the moment.

Fix box so it survives trip home from Finland.

Use RTLSDR or similar low power receiver to receive AIS signals and integrate with collision avoidance.

Shrouds are too long, shorten them.

Especially at the bow. This could make the difference between serious damage and no damage in a collision.

Cardboard sides and fill between foam with expanding foam.

It would be nice if someone could look into the possibility of programming the Arduino without a usb connection, either over spi or serial, preferably with some hardware experimentation. This is in refrence to #45

Reconnect the compass power (3.3V) and I2C bus including pullups (to 5V????).

Allow recharging without removing the batteries.