vorondesign / voron-afterburner Goto Github PK

Latest Beta2 STL. Front view shows blower STL intake not centered to fan or body of STL. Using a Delta BFB0524HH from Filastuder which appears to be authentic. There are a lot of counterfeits out there. Fan is not getting loaded quite as much as with the factory housing: 124mA @24v with original cover vs 114mA mounted in STL so the fan could be loaded more...

Back view shows fan well centered left to right. Hard to measure. Fan may need to be moved down relative to the top or intake hole moved upwards depending on design intent.

I would expect the intake hole size to be slightly greater than the inside impeller blade diameter? I measure a 32.25 mm dia intake hole on the blower cover that was was removed while the STL is ~30mm. There also is a ~3mm gap between the impeller blades and the intake hole while distance to the original fan cover is ~2mm. The larger gap which could reduce efficiency? What is the thinking for how large the gap should be?

Looking forward to the release of the step files to allow local quick iterations. Thanks for all the work!

Hi, I'm trying to build a SB with a Pheatus BMS (6 fin version) I previously used this hotend in an ABBN-30 and it worked great there. In the SB it doesn't fit, because there is no room for the collet that holds the PTFE tube.
Because there is no room for the collar, the screwholes don't line up with the heatset inserts.

Stealthburner:

For reference the same mount from ABBN-30:

I'm new to the Voron community and was trying to determine which printhead parts to print for my Phaetus X Voron Dragon HF hotend. On Discord I was told to use the TriangleLab_Dragon models. I'd never heard of TriangleLab but this is apparently the same hotend made by the same manufacturer. A readme in the printheads directory might be a good place to put these kinds of notes where the models support multiple hotends or variants thereof.

When clicking the page number or section in the table of Contents I would expect Acrobat Reader to jump to that page in the manual. This feature was introduced in the Trident manual and is a QOL improvement.

Since CW2 is beta version, I've just tried to use Stealthburner on my My Voron2.4 with Clockwork 1 and Phaetus dragon hotend. (Voron-Dragon HF Hotend)
But the LED sharp corner touch layer while printing randomly. Sometimes layers are broken by the corner.
Can you fix this? Thanks for all the work!

stealthburner_main_body_beta2.stl
stealthburner_toolhead_(dragon)-front-beta0.stl
stealthburner_toolhead_(dragon)-rear-cw1-beta0.stl

It seems the idler gear assembly is really tight when sandwiched between the motor plate and other half of the CW2.

The cw2 bolts are pretty loose right now (finger tight) to avoid binding, and it still seems there is not a lot of play. I sanded down the idler assembly to give it more play and it's better now, but it seems pretty tight in there. Can the two plastic standoffs holes that meet the motor plate be taller (in 0.4 -0.6mm range perhaps?), or can the holes in the motor plate be made slightly less deep, or can the idler assembly be trimmed in order to give the assembly just a little bit more play? I think the assembly would be more forgiving it had a little bit more tolerance and had easier swing.

Perhaps also of note is that i print on textured plate, which may affect thickness tolerances as well (only on the idler assembly though, since the insides of the CW2 sandwich would not be affected by that). The same printer and plate was used to print Voron 0.1 parts, and that went together easily, so i doubt my 2.4 setup is that far off.

I used motor_plate-beta0.stl, main_body-beta0.stl, [a]_guidler_a-beta0.stl, and [a]_guidler_b-beta0.stl

The screwheads on the PINDA probe mount extend into the back of the Rapido tool head mount back.

The latch is too weak at its thinnest part and prone to bending (see the pic, upper one) I propose to make it thicker (see the pic, lower one). Discord discussion is here.

The current E3D V6 hot end block is 11.5mm thick. The E3D volcano hot end block is 20mm thick. Would it be possible to extend the current V6 version to quickly create the Stealthburner volcano version? Thank you in advance
V6-Volcano-Block-(PT100)_PUBLI.pdf
V6-BLOCK-CARTRIDGE.pdf
!

Hi,

I recently printed out the newest Dragon mounts (beta2 front and beta1 cw2).

Previously I had the beta0 for both.
I noticed that now, the ducts are very high - to the point, where the air is blowing on the sock and significantly impacts the PID profile - to the point of triggering heater fault when the fan kicks in. This was not the case with beta0. Now, they are as much of a problem as we've had the BMS mount before in ticket #26

When looking at the underneath of the mount - the bottom plate of the Dragon is sticking out of the mount - which was not the case with the previous version.

To be sure - are the socks not causing an issue here? If I take them out, just visually I can tell that air will not really impact the heatblock. But with the sock on - it seems as if some of it would be blocked the sock. I don't have a way of running a flow simulation, so I may be talking out of my ass here, but... I'm worried this is still an issue.

I'm attaching pictures below of before and after.

New ducts:

Old ducts:

Probably the fit for the small boss on the extruder body is too tight. Was unable to disassemble without breaking it. Discord discussion is here.

There is an issue with the BMS 7 fin rear new release. (stealthburner_toolhead_(phaetus_bms7)-rear-cw2-beta3.stl)
There is a hole on the side of the wall that is supposed to hide the m3 x 50mm bolt. This hole only appears when the piece is sliced (at any layer height). I don't think that this is a major issue but it would be good to give a look at it

In comparison, the Dragon rear one is correct (stealthburner_toolhead_(dragon)-rear-cw2-beta2.stl)

Edit: the hole appears also on the 6 fin version.

#86

blower_housing_rear doesn't quite have enough clearance for the wires of the BOM (2.4) blower, leaving two options - wires are crushed against the housing, or remove the wires from their clips and risk them coming detached from their solder points. Both happened to me.

I made a very minor adjustment to the housing that alleviates the issue, which I thought would be good to illustrate

marked up (master) stl showing location of required fix
printed part with fix

Fix available in #12

Hi,
Can the top bolting location for the two bodys be moved up 0.8mm, Reduce the Depth of the Counter Bore,Hex.
Also the 3.3mm that the CW2 be all the way through.

This will then allow the Modified CW for the ERCF to fit on the assembly?
I have donthe LH side however the RH stl file has gaps and cannot be repaired in SW,IN,F360

images.githubusercontent.com/74456725/147823126-f5d5afca-0f2c-4fc4-a786-19673db896ca.JPG)
0

I just finished mounting a Phaetus BMS onto the SB.
I noticed the ducts are high enough that they blow onto the heatblock - especially if a sock is present. This is very visible also during PID tuning.

Photos attached.

I would like to see more clearance for the PINDA probe (mine is a genuine SuperPINDA), using the Pinion adapter from v2.2.
It seems that the probe sits a bit lower (~1-2mm) on the SB than on the AB v2.4r1, so I had to adjust it to sit higher, but there was simply not enough clearance between the two lower MGN12H mounting holes for the probe itself.
Hence why I grinded a little slope between them to make room, as seen on the image (marked in red).

After updating from CW1 to CW2 I was getting huge skipping and extrusion issues.

I narrowed it down to the amount of clamping force on the filament between the two gears due to the guidler arms being too stubby.

I've modded up a quick fix that has completely fixed the issues on my end and I believe it might help solve potential edge cases similar to mine.

(Blue is the original guidler pieces, the grey is the shifted portion.)

By shifting the guidler's gear slightly more toward the main drive gear, the spring tensioner also has a larger adjustment range and allows for more tolerance in the bmg gears.

With a 30,0 mm rod being perfectly flush with the bottom bearing it sticks out of the top bearing ~1mm. This makes the rod touch the printed part and block the rotation once fully assembled. Since the pulley is glued into place it can not be corrected easily after assembly and finding out.

Can you reduce a little more material above to give room for non perfect alignment or add the ideal position of the pulley (in mm length of the rod sticking out on each side).

When printing the main_body_beta1 in Cura with Slicing Tolerance: Exclusive, the supports for these overhangs (the green parts) are not printed at all, so the blue sections are unsupported spaghetti:

Here's the toolpath view in Cura:

Slicing Tolerance: Exclusive:

Slicing Tolerance: Middle:

This is the first issue I've encountered with Slicing Tolerance: Exclusive - I've printed an entire Voron 0.1 and a few Voron extruders with this enabled. If Middle should be used, we might want to mention that in the docs somewhere. I can put in a PR if that's the route you want to go (assuming the docs are on GitHub).

Settings:
Cura 4.12.0
Layer height: 0.20mm
Filter out tiny gaps: enabled (disabling didn't help)
Fill gaps between walls: everywhere

As the title says, SB main body face could use a small chamfer to compensate for elephants for, it would also look nicer.

LDO Galileo Clockwork Kit gears do not fit.

is the clockwork 2 going to be modded to use LDO Galileo Clockwork Kit?

With the IGUS chain mount, the strain relief tab extends past the edge of the cover. As a result, the zip-ties on the strain relief tab get pushed back toward the chain, and the wires all need to make a sharp 90° turn to get under the cover.

I think the Dev Team ( or the person curating the Manuals ) may want to add an Upgrade Warning/Notice that the new SB/CW2 combo will both change and reduce the build volume in most if not all axes.

The MGN12 Carriage is ~4mm wider than the AB/CW one ( increasing the chance of a collision when attempting to reach X0 on a 350 sized setup ), the Nozzle is being pushed like 3mm towards the front of the build volume ( necessitating the move of both the Z-Probe and Build Plate ) and the increased height of the entire SB/CW2 assembly reduces the Z-Build Volume height by 15-20mm.

One hole still needs the (credit Timmit for the naming of this "feature"):

Hole Bridging Assist Feature
aka squircle hole
aka HOSE: Hole Open Squaring Extra
aka OAF: Overhang Assistance Feature
aka OOF: Overhang Optimization Feature

https://github.com/VoronDesign/Voron-Afterburner/blob/sb-beta/STLs/Clockwork2/motor_plate-beta2.stl

I was building a afterburner and I cross checked the manual (V2.4) and the BOM/sourcing guide afterburner tab
I found some discrepancies.

here is an overview.
I've also attached a tab separated file to better understand the mismatch. (columns E to S is the manual page number)

afterburner_manual_crosschec_TAB_separated.txt

Can we have the SB-beta cad files?
Want to update toolboard PCB design.

distance between nozzle and highest point of fanduct is about 3mm.

When mounting "chain anchor_3hole-beta0.stl" to "motor_plate-beta0.stl", I put the heatset insert in a tad too deep (perhaps 0.5mm or so). This was enough for the m3x20 BHCS screw to not engage with the thread. So it seems the designed bolt length is a tad too short in some cases.

When i used an m3x25 instead, I blew out the back of the part while tightening.

Suggestion to make this more robust/less critical:

• update instructions to use m3x25 instead of m3x20.
• modify the "chain anchor_3hole-beta0.stl" to include an m3 relief opening so that the longer bolt can go in without bottoming out inside the part.

The files in this repo are not updated compared to the stls in the Voron-2 repo. Keep this repo updated at all times.

I've noticed that the suggested M3x25 screws for the top holes of the sb are to long and therefore will thread through the plastic (if you force them, otherwise the top isn't secured properly) of the lgx-adapter. Using m3x20 solved that. I guess its worth pointing that out in the manual or to add a new adapter for the lgx.

After building a v0 and working on a Switchwire mod I have noticed after printing the Afterburner parts a lot of the heatset holes are 4.8 mm instead of the standard 4.7 mm used everywhere else. This causes the heat sets to just fall into the hole and not actually melt any plastic. This seems to be a problem with all CAD for other printers that use the Afterburner as well. It is probably an issue with the STLs as well.

Bowden couplings do not center with the bowden hole further down the element.
I'm also missing a bowden coupler that will work with stock dragon hotend coupler (conical inside).

My apologies if I posting int the wrong place but I have try FB and Discord with no success on anyone given response. I printed 2 sets of the Stealthburner. One is on my SW with a SKR1.4 and the other one I use on my new v2 build with Octopus Pro. The LED (RGB) working fine on the SW but not on the V2. the lights keep flashing with different colors and I can't control it. I'm using a harness from KB3D that came with the 3 additional wires for it. I'm using PIN0 <- Cero. I can measure the current off 4.99v. Any help would help

The housings are too small for a Slice Copperhead with a V6 mount. Can anything be done about this?

File print: stealthburner_toolhead_(phaetus_bms)-rear-cw1-beta0 (and front), the upper corner radius seem wider than the hot-end corner radius lead to the upper end of hot-end not sit flush and the bolt misalignment with hole below (a little, I can force it in). See picture below:

PINDA style probe intersects with switchwire x carriage. There is a contour on the linear rail mount, but the opposite contour is missing from the x carraige.

I'm using natural ABS as my diffuser and led carrier but in an attempt to let more light through I drilled a hole in the carrier. This does allow a little more light through and I think negates the need for the carrier to be made from clear plastic.

Just a thought.

[c]_stealthburner_LED_carrier-beta1

Hi,
first and foremost I would like to bring this issue to attention where we can track it all together properly. Discord doesn't seem the right place for me as messages and focused discussions get overscrolled and interrupted with non-related topics very quickly.
Before I start I want to mention that I don't expect this issue to get solved by the Voron Team alone. Moreover, I want to evaluate this together with you so that the entire Voron community can benefit from it.

I started facing this extrusion issue when I completed my 100%-built-by-specc Switchwire. In the beginning I was thinking that the printer wasn't properly tuned yet. So I went through all the tuning steps (aligning belts, rails, tuning for filament, E-steps, run_current etc). The result didn't improve within about 90 or more test prints (where I tested every single extrusion related slicer and firmware setting).
Over the course of a few weeks, I partly reassembled the SW again, paying special attention for accuracy, squareness, etc, results didn't improve. At this point I was still under the impression that the issue was on my side as the issue still persists.
To rule out the AB, I converted my SW to bowden and the issue was gone! So I came to the conclusion that there might be a problem with the AB itself.
Because of that, I reprinted the Clockwork parts, changed the TL gears, changed all bearings, changed the motor, changed the entire hotend, precisely cut the PTFE tube. No change in results at all.
For informational purposes, this is my config: https://pastebin.com/nyULd4ca
Fast forward:
Up to yesterday, I noticed that more and more people are facing the same or similar issues, even if they might be fine with the results.
I got sent a plethora of pictures which I was allowed to use in this Git issue. They all more or less show the same problem,
Please note that most pictures where shot with "bad" light, directly from the top to make the issue apparent.
These are kinda mixed from specc-built v2.4's and SW's.



Cubes from my SW:


Random v0 part printed with my SW:

Another set of v0 parts:

For my part, I could rule out any looseness in the kinematics or topics related to filament (as I made tests with PETG, PLA and ABS from various brands).
Those defects appear either random (not at fixed heights) or depending on print features within the model (plateaus, holes, etc).

For me it comes down to a few points:

• requirement of quality is not the same for every user (they might live with the defects)
• There might be issues with either the AB internat geometry or the ABS shrinkage bothering with the tolerances
• related to the point above: A genuine Bondtech BMG in a direct drive situation in another (non Voron) printer works perfectly without showing these defects
• Using a bowden extruder (M4 in this case) eliminated the issue

Yesterday, I had a brief conversation with Ray. I introduced the topic "Prusa Issue 602", which looks awefully similar to this.
I would be happy if you could either assist with this issue or shed some light on it.

Thanks in advance!

stealthburner_leds.cfg

variable_thermal_config: {
        'extruder': {
            'cool_temp': 40,
            'leds': 'logo',
        },
        'heater_bed': {
            'cool_temp': 40,
            'leds': 'nozzle',
        },
    }

How do I use this code?

Hi, I just recently built my first Voron ( a Trident) and switched the two bmg gears since the grub screws were not mentioned in the manual.
For a first time builder it might not be clear that the drive gear needs to be the one with the grub screw. I suggest to add a comment in the Stealthburner Manual in regards to this.

( I was assembling afterburner but I guess making the change in the CW2 manual should have higher priority)-

Hotend cooling fan bay has 3 corners rounded and one left without fillet, this results in slicer having issues and the print has a hole in the wall. as seen on attached images


.

Non heat set holes on this piece are too big for M3 bolts so the bolts do not cut a thread when inserting.

The last page of the manual specifies two m3 x 25 screws for the front plate on clockwork 2, but it should be m3 x 20mm or else the screws stick through pretty far.

I have a problem mounting the B52 fan. Had to dremel out the screw hole, but it seems that 2mm in diameter are missing.

So, I've now assembled my SB/CW2 Combo but I've yet to test it on my Voron 2.4 due to me still working on HartK1213 Toolhead PCB and an ERCF Toolhead Sensor compatibility - While the latter wasn't that much of a problem the former still is - Kinda wish the Cable Door would offer like two more mm of free space inside:

I'll most likely have to modify the PCB by turning the PCF Board Connector into a Pigtail one 😑

Aaanyway... A bunch of other things I've noticed along the ride that may also be of interest for the general public:

1. Manual Page 15 - The supposed M3x20mm screw should most likely be an M3x25mm too
   ( akin to the three other M3x25mm ones that hold the two CW2 halves together via Heat Inserts ).
2. Part Interference - The marked corners could use some trimming as they're interfering with the Idler BMG Teeth:
   
3. Part Printability - Continuing the split along the red marked line would significantly improve printability of the Cable Door as the small triangle ends up being a R.P.I.T.A. to print without it turning into a hot mess:
   

The bottom heat sink fin on the E3D V6 heat sink is not enclosed within the area cooled by the tool-head fan. The V6 heat sink measures 42.7 mm from end to end, and 39mm from the upper inside edge of the mounting groove to the bottom of the lowest cooling fin. The SB mount for the V6 measures approximately 36 mm from the upper edge of the mounting groove to the bottom ridge of the cooling duct that encloses the heat sink (about 3mm short of what is needed, if my measurements are correct). This leaves the lowest fin of the heat sink un-cooled, and in my case seems to have caused heat creep issues for me while printing PETG, I don't have definitive evidence for this, but anecdotally the PETG will not experience heat creep when fitted with the ABBN. As a point of comparison, the ABBN V6 mount appears to fully enclose the V6 heat sink within the area cooled by the tool head fan.

My Rapido Hotend came with an included strain relief. Which i know the early review units didnt have. But thats also was causing problems for me. With the included strain relief i cant get the Rapido to fit into the cable channels.
Printed Parts:
[Stealthburner_toolhead_rapido_rear_cw2_beta0, Stealthburner_toolhead_rapido_front_beta0]

My suggested solution would be to make a cutout at the side of the cable channel (like shown in the picture below)

As the title says, i have cramped all cables under cable cover, looks great but i ALWAYS have a cable touching extruder gear and clicking, often thinking its extruder clicking...

Never had a problem printing Voron parts with my v2.4 but this one gave me unexplained artifacts. Lamination is good and the part is strong but there are very visible artifact lines that reflect features on the inside of the part. This is not a layer shift since that layer is OK on the rest of the perimeter of the part.

I don't know if it's just me would would be useful to stay within the current requirements of Voron part printing.