gregsaun / bear_extruder_and_x_axis Goto Github PK

Hi Grégoire,

do you plan to push the latest F360 files soon?

If the extruder is at the left-most or right-most positions and I increase the Z position, the x_carriage_back part hits the z-top parts.
And also, the filament spool holder, if z-axis moved to top.

Hello

can you please share the x_end_idler scad?

I made an upgrade from an anet A8 but my steel rods are longer, I didn't take that in count that, now I want to test out the printer, but the rods are too long :(.
I would need the scad to modify in that part to be able to fit the longer rods.
this would be only a temporary solution, after that, I want to cut the rods, but still, now I'm not sure its oke all the setup.

Howdy howdy. I'm building a bear from scratch and using 8mm lead screws with a 2mm lead. I have two different kinds of trapezoidal nuts (one brass, one POM) and both have nuts 15mm apart instead of the 19mm that the stock Prusa nuts have.

No problem, I can change that in the fusion 360 models (yay!) and I can edit the literals in the sketch there to make it work, but what would you think about these being User Parameters?

Seems we could accomplish this with a single new parameter, the distance between the bolt holes in the nut. Everything else could be based on that.

Main benefit here is that as you continue to evolve then those of us using slightly different things can rebuild our STLs by just changing one parameter.

Happy to make these changes and submit a PR (does that work for fusion 360 files?) if you agree.

Hiya,

First of all: thanks for your amazing work and effort on the Bear-projects! I’ve been using a full Bear MK3S - first with the Bear-extruder and currently with the Bearmera - very happily for a while!

Now, I’ve found my original Prusa to have a score in one of it’s X-rods. So, I’ve got to replace it.. I’m probably going to convert it to the Bear-Exxa in the process, but I’m looking for just that little bit extra for an upgrade.

I really dig the Caribou 10mm X-axis for that little bit extra. But unfortunately, that won't work with a 8mm Z-axis.

Would you consider developing a 10mm Bear-Exxa variation? Ideally making variations to work with both 8mm and 10mm Z-axis, also opening up the door for a full 10mm Bear!

Hello,
When looking at the instruction/manual, there doesn't seems to be any references to the black Z nut (where the threaded rods goes) that we can see here : https://github.com/gregsaun/bear_extruder_and_x_axis/blob/master/manual/quick_assembly.md

Can you please please edit the part list ( here : https://github.com/gregsaun/bear_extruder_and_x_axis/blob/master/manual/bom.md ) with the reference to this part ?

TY

Four M3x16 Button head screws are needed to complete the Sunon Fan assembly.

BOM:
https://github.com/gregsaun/bear_extruder_and_x_axis/blob/master/manual/bom.md

Assembly Guide:
https://guides.bear-lab.com/Guide/3.+Extruder/13?lang=en#s133

Are the step files (or maybe fusion 360 files) for the cable guide parts available ?

My strips are a bit wider than the holes, and the easiest thing would be to modify the existing parts by just widening the holes a bit.

Any plan to improve extruder flow and move the cooling fan to a 45 degree angle similar to the Prusa R3 parts that were released in July, 2018? It appears that Prusa put a good deal of thought into the new design, would any of this make sense for the Bear Extruder design?

Regarding printing nozzle_fan_duct i have the following materials:

• Prusament PLA/PETG/ASA
• EasyABS
• CPE HG100
• ColorFabb XT-CF20

Which one you recommend using?

Kind regards

Now testing what would happen when combining Bear extruder with Bunny Science. Moves motor 14 mm closer to x-rods than gearbox bolt-on. That's even a few mm behind the front of the normal Bear extruder body.

https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3560341

It works...

Hi, first of all thanks for the work you have done!

Secondly I would like to ask, if you are planning on releasing new version compatible with Prusa's ball bearing filament sensor... for the hemera extruder...?

Thanks a bunch!

Hi Gregsaun,
I work with a new air-nozzle that will fit your extruder.
But when I assemble the extruder I see that some holes need to be moved, this in order to maintain full compatibility with the original extruder.

At the attached drawing you will see what needs to be done. In addition, I would like a little support for the right side of the air nozzle (see drawing).

Hi,
I'm looking to build a bear Prusa from scratch and had a look at the Additional BOM for scratch build for bear_extruder_and_x_axis.

In the BOM, idler is 2GT 20T, but in assembly guide it is 2GT 16. Which is the right part?

By the way, there are some parts from scratch missing from BOM like E3D extruder, bearings, maybe others.

Thank you for your great work.

Fred

Where you use Igus bearings would it be beneficial to have fine extrusions in the bearing spaces to ensure a better fit? In the gaps where the bearing would have a clip fitting?

Looks like you are slated to do a part cooling shroud.

Might I suggest this design as an option? https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3063554

it will keep the fan vertical thus not having an issue with the wear and tear that the r3 angle might induce. And the design seems to be decently tested for performance already.

I loaded it up and compared with the mk3 parts and it looks like shifting the fan and shroud forward about 1.6-2mm gives it adequate clearance around the pinda.(2mm shown in image)

Hi,

I've printed the X-ends on an i3 MK3 out of PETG with the recommended settings: 0.20mm, 5 top/bottom, 4 perimeters. I only deviated by going with 40% infill instead of 20%. I am confident that my MK3 is as precise and well-tuned as it gets.

Unfortunately I'm having trouble inserting the smooth rods (Igus SWM-08). I'm leaning on the X-ends with all my weight and the rods still won't go all the way. I actually ended up having to hammer on the ends with a mallet. They scrape up a bit of material on their way. Of course this hurts precision... And I can forget about the "X smooth rods tension" or ever removing the rods again without breaking the ends.

Do you have an idea why this happens? I suspect that the lack of chamfer on the Igus rods might be the problem. Unfortunately I don't have any other rods to test.

This is just a suggestion, but from the Skelestruder I tested, it seems that using a much lighter slimline motor, doesn't give any negative effects in print quality, and can reduce the weight of the body by quite a bit (https://e3d-online.com/nema17-slimline-stepper-motor). From my testing you'd only need to run a single command (M92 E840) to update the printer to work with a higher resolution motor.

Once I can find some time, I'd like to test this out, initially by just using a slimline motor on your extruder body and see how it fairs, might even be able to move the motor even close to the rods since it weighs less and might not need as much supporting material to sit against.

Not a true issue but the following part needs a 4mm brim to print:

bear_extruder_and_x_axis/printed_parts/stl/common/extruder_body.stl

Otherwise the bit indicated in the picture has a tendency to fall over during printing.

For some people it can turn inside the pocket

Is there a way to mount the new BMG-M that was released for the slice mosquito with this setup?

Filament sensor needs to be disassembled.

https://www.facebook.com/groups/prusabearupgrade/permalink/1105132772980365/

Just completed the build. I reset the firmware to defaults and went through the whole self check again. Calibration completed fine.

Build notes - X axis belts are 100% parallel now. Distance between top and bottom of belts only differ by less than 1mm on 4 spots the whole length of the axis. X axis tension adjustment works perfect.

Inexperienced users should not attempt without proper instructions though.

X - carriage install was ok - however with no cable ties the install was a tad difficult especially when routing cables due to the weight of the extruder motor. On that - cable routing improved over original. Filament sensor works ok so far, adjusting the tension on the bondtech easier with one screw too. Unloading of filament seems easier with less of an blob than I had on the old setup. Anecdotal for now, will tell you if that changes.

As a note I added this : https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2904281. It works ok-ish although the design can be improved to sit better in the v-slot and adjusting from the bottom is not really easy. Can do with refinement, will see if I can improve on it when I can steal some time.

Hi,
My filament sensor is always triggered, only if I put it out of the extruder it returns 'OPEN' (M119 command).

Hi Greg,
Wondering if the current x-carriage and x-end parts are compatible with the newly released bondtech extruder upgrade for the mk3? I have one on order and was planning on upgrading to your parts if they are compatible. If not, do you plan on updating them in the near future? Thanks.

Hi, I see now with the latest version it only shows MK3S? Does this also work with a MK3?
I printed and built an earlier version and installed it on my MK3, and it works fine, but I'm curious about compatibility of this latest version of the parts. Thanks!

This bit needs supports or maybe rethinked angle here:

I was manually torquing my extruder a little bit to see what the least-stiff part of the assembly was. Turned out it was the bearing mounts in the X ends.

For Igus users, the bushings themselves aren't very stiff and they depend on the shell into which they are installed for stiffness. For all users, torquing the extruder will open up the bearing bore a little bit and allow the whole X axis to twist a little.

For reference, these clamps seem pretty nice.

On the website I read that a filament sensor for the bearmerra is planned for after the 1.0 release. Is this still the case? I love my filament sensor on the MK3S, and not having it would put me off from buying a Hemera

hi, I am trying to make my own design of printer, and tried to accommodate it on the the linear guide-way of hgh15 please help me with, I don't want you to create a X carriage for my use case, but to create a back plate that can be fitted to any X carriage making it universal. hopping you would help me, thanks in advance

I am building a Bondtech BMG-M Extruder / Mosquito magnum hotend to my Prusa MK3. I am also adding some Igus RJZM-01-08 bearings. The problem is that the bearings are 16mm x 25.25mm and the Bear parts are 15.3mm x 24mm and the bearings don't fit. Could you please attach the x_carriage_back.f3d file to this file so that I can modify the file.

Printing the parts right now, the a part of the cable guide in the default orientation is a very difficult print to do successfully, the initial two or so layers are only time little marks on the bed, after a few layers it comes loose - depending on speed obviously. You can rotate and print at an angle but I think the one side could be flattened to print easier?

Will let you know how the rest goes, MK3 and Mk2.5 running at full speed.

Like the title says, the quick guide image needs to be updated :)

Hello,
i did the bear upgrade and updated my MK2S to MK2.5.
Now i build a MK2S with the left frame/parts.
Can i use this extrude/x-axis parts for a MK2S build (without filament sensor and old pinda)?

The 2.5 build angles the part fan at 45^o so the fan shroud cannot be used on bear builds, where the part fan lies parallel to the extruder.

Sadly, no fan shroud has been included in printable parts.

@gregsaun I've been running this setup for a while before the public release and now the bondtech gears are slipping on the filament. I believe this is due to the hole (for the tightener) being placed over the gear's meshing teeth and not closer to the teeth for the filament. This is causing the filament to extrude sometime and not extruder other times.

Although this could be due to body parts warping when printing at high temperatures within my enclosure.

Hi Greg,
I known that you already make the fusion360 source files available, but the computer I'm using is unable to use fusion 360 due to weak CPU and lack of graphic card. Can you release the step file of the design in dev branch too?
Thank you!

The PINDA probe mount on the new MK2.5S/MK3S STL is lower in Z space than the main extruder body, making it unprintable as arranged. I know it's just a Dev version but thought I would share my feedback.

Hi - can I suggest you mention supports in the print settings? Even if not needed will stop the question in future.

This is something I am working on it, I would like to try to split the x-carriage-back into to two pieces. Not sure it will be possible.

Something to check. For the lower single bearing, the X Carriage back is not clamping against the bearing. This results in significant slop. I'm using the Bondtech mosquito X carriage in optional parts, with the x carriage back in the mk3s printed parts in the dev branch. Maybe I'm mismatching by mistake?

Will you consider to base a version on the BMG extruder with the handle on the left to fit your latest extruder parts?
I prefer the most recent design from you but all mod's are based on the older carriage and part.

Because the X carriage is thinner by 1.5mm, the PINDA is closer to X smooth rods by the same dimension.

The Sunon MF40100V1-1000U-G99 is recommended as an alternative to the Noctua fan however the Sunon seems very difficult to source. Is there an alternative to the Sunon that has similar specs?

Thanks

Tim

I have been experimenting with 0.9 degree motors in x, y and extruder positions and having good success in all three positions.

https://shop.prusa3d.com/forum/user-mods-octoprint-enclosures-nozzles--f65/stepper-motor-upgrades-to-eliminate-vfa-s-vertical-t28098.html

One suggestion I have is to allow motor removal without needing to tear down the entire extruder. This can be achieved by...

1. Shifting lower left, rear cover bolt laterally.

2. Add access holes through mounting plate to reach motor bolts. These holes would go through the upper bearing mounts and ideally be large enough to fit M3 bolt head.

If these simple changes were made, motor swaps could be performed by removing the upper rear cover, slipping the upper bearings out of the way, and removing the four motor bolts. This would dramatically simplify swapping and servicing of the motor. The present design requires a much more extensive tear down to change motors.

My rough artwork below shows the suggested changes.

One of the big draws of the Bear extruder is easier service. This mod extends ease of service to the stepper motor.

I build up my new Bear 2.1 with the BEARmera. There is maybe a little problem with the dimensions of some parts. The Hemera fan knocks on the x-motor-end while going left to the startup position. So, until there is no endstop switch (MK3s) the fan drives into the left side. On the second picture you see, there is some space left between the x-motor-end and the x- carriage.

Thomas

Note that this was not fixed by commit 21bc1fd

Parts:

• x_carriage_back.stl
• x_carriage.stl

It is obvious from the image that the X-Carriage rod holes do not line up... well, they do but the shells don't.

Might be hard to find the best compromise between easy installation and avoiding the nut to fall down