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ut210e's Issues

The UT210E could have a different eeprom installed

The UT210 not only has the DM24C02A EEprom installed, it could be a different one (T24C02A).
In my case the manufacturer used the T24C08A which has 1024 bytes..
Fortunately they use the same EEPROM-Addresses.
So if the EEPROM goes bad you can use the same size, a bigger one or a different manufacurer to be back in game.

In the attachments, you can see the Addresses since 0x0100 are empty.

Greetings
Feuerstahl

UT210E _EEprom_dump_1
UT210E _EEprom_dump_2

wrong values in table?

First, thanks for your work to collect the information here.

Since i have no experience in coding and i have a 210d instead of a "e"version i am very carefully checking what is the same and what not, what can be changed and what not and i came across the table.
for changing to 6000 counts.


Address OEM Value Description
0x10-0x11 0x1770 full range (6000d = 0x1770; 8000d = 0x1F40)

In other info like the 210e-Calculator here on github from adlerweb, with not loading even a file, and just click the black button to see at end of page the values changed, one sees
adres 10 original value 70, modded 70
adres 11 original value 17, modded 17

these values on adres 10 and 11 as 70 and 17 instead of 17 and 70 are also seen at the EEV blog.

So you might want to change these in the table.
thanks.

ErrE shown after EEProm Flashing

Dear Folks, maybe sorry for this question, but im new to this.

I did the mod via Arduino and everythings worked fine. I added 6200 counts. But i recognized, that i didnt measure between 6,2 and 9,7 Volts anymore. So restored the original eprom, and i works fine again.

After that i just wanted to flash those mods in the eprom i really need. But no i cant read it out anymore. Also when i plug in the Battery and try to turn it on

"ErrE"

comes up in the Display.

How can i reset it..? What can i do to get access to the eeprom?

regards

"short or no pull-up"

I've got a BP 3.6 and a brand new UT210
I've hooked up the BP via a SOIC8 clip double-checking the "v" output colours in the BP firmware match which SOIC pins I connected to and verified connection with a second multimeter.
When I have brought power & pull-up online with W/P in BP and then query i2c, I get "Warning: *short or no pull-up" back from BP
Not sure what I'm doing wrong, seems like everything is connected correctly unless I misread something (particularly around the additional ground required for reset)

The pictures of hooking up the BP are a bit unclear on the connection point between the SOIC8 clip and the hookup wires leading to BP, my SOIC clip is just naked with no header, and even if it had a header, I can't easily see which hookup wires are connected to which pins.
Instead I've referred to the CZ1 image labelling the pins, and mapped these to my BP wire colours.

Pictures attached:

The BP (power on / pull ups on)
Image from iOS (30)

"v" output showing BP wire colours and voltages
image

The BP clips:
Image from iOS (31)

1) BP:Brown[Wire]/Black[Clip] (GND) to Jumper:Black
2) BP:Red[Wire]/Yellow[Clip] (3.3V) to Jumper:Orange }      Same jumper as (3)
3) BP:Green[Wire]/Green[Clip] (VPU) to Jumper:Orange }      Same jumper as (2)
4) BP:Purple[Wire]/Green[Clip] (SCL) to Jumper:Purple
5) BP:Grey[Wire]/Yellow[Clip] (SDA) to Jumper:Blue

The other end of those jumpers going onto my clip:
Image from iOS (30)

Assuming the crystal is in the bottom right as per picture then the pins are stacked up as follows:

4) Blue (4th furthest from crystal, EEPROM side)  SDA
3) Purple SCL
2) Brown WP (see below, this jumps from one side of the clip to the other)
1) Orange (closest to crystal, EEPROM side) 3.3V

Then on the other side of the clip:

8) Brown
7) NC
6) Black
5) NC

As all the EEPROM grounds on this side are tied together, this means that my jumper wires for Brown (EEPROM/CZ1 WP) and Black (BP GND) are tied together,
This also (on the PCB) connects to VSS on the CZ1 header based on a multimeter probe test.

SOIC8 clip on the chip
Image from iOS (18)

I have to shuffle it a bit to get it to contact (as well as nudge the capacitors) but I verified connection before bringing the BP up by using my other multimeter in beep mode confirming that the CZ1 pins mapped to my expected BP clips.

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