WTF with stl??? about rt_soldering_pen HOT 11 OPEN

The case was designed to be used with wires connected directly coming out the back of the PCB, to a battery connector (mine has about a meter of 22ga two-strand bonded silicone wire coming out the back with an XT60 at the end). For that, the ones I have printed come out fantastic. They have an absolutely perfect fit to the PCB. For your use, it would probably not be very hard to cut off the last five milimeters or so of the case and maybe carve the hole out a little bigger to fit your connector.

from rt_soldering_pen.

Your stl files are for V1, mine is 0.3
They are not compatible!
That must be stated out!!!

from rt_soldering_pen.

Sorry man, just trying to help. I'm not the one who created the project (that's Pawel Revak) and I'm not the one who designed the case (that's Otto Winter). However, the page does say that it's meant for HW v1.0:

https://hackaday.io/project/18899-rt-soldering-pen/log/171690-rt-pen-case

from rt_soldering_pen.

Forget about. OLED is dead after trying to fit in this case

from rt_soldering_pen.

What is OLED part number?

from rt_soldering_pen.

Aw man, that sucks! I actually had the same thing happen to me as well. Even with HW 1.0, the cutout for the screen is off by a millimeter, maybe even less, and it will crack the edge of the screen if you force it. Pawel said Otto used a prototype version of the board, so it's a little off. On the plus side, it's fairly easy to replace the screen. I used this that I was able to get off Amazon overnight (I'm in the US).

https://www.amazon.com/Pieces-Display-Module-SSD1306-Screen/dp/B08TLXYKS6/ref=sr_1_6?dchild=1&keywords=0.91+OLED&qid=1626449777&sr=8-6

Downside is that I had to desolder it from the breakout board first, so it was extra work, but I didn't feel like waiting a month for a bare panel to ship to me from China. Once I replaced the screen, the trick is to put the screen in the case before you stick it down to the PCB with the double-sided tape. This way it will position itself properly and then you won't have a problem anymore.

from rt_soldering_pen.

By the way, if you do buy the screen already attached to a breakout board like I did, a little heat will help release the double-sided tape without cracking the screen again. But be very careful with the heat, as it can affect the crystals in the screen. Just use a very tiny bit for a short time, that's all it takes. Then I used some dental floss to carefully slide between the tape and the PCB and cut it loose. You can use a knife but you run the risk of getting the blade stuck or applying pressure that makes the screen bend and crack. With floss this is impossible and it's very thin so it slides through easier.

from rt_soldering_pen.

On the schematic it marked as 0.84" 96x16, but in you link it is 0.91"
Which is correct?

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I have HW v1.0, and I bought what I linked, and it fit perfectly, 1-for-1 replacement. If you have HW v0.3, it might use a smaller/lower res display, I'm not sure.

from rt_soldering_pen.

v0.3 also has 0.91, (it is mistake in schematic) for both is possible to put also 0.84 (16x96), but software is made for only 0.91 (32x128)

from rt_soldering_pen.

I guess these corrections will follow

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